Key skills to be a good no-limit holdem player
- Strict hand selection (patience/discipline)
- Discipline not to chase (call with weak holdings)
- Reading opponents
- Courage to bet/raise/call down (aggressive with draws or perceived best hands)
- Not vulnerable to go tilt
What type of players should does NOT benefit the most from limit holdem
- Beginners (who typically focus on their own cards, lacks aggression and tend to call too much)
- Technical players with weaker reading skills
- Players that can easily go tilt
Summary - best advice and worst mistakes
No-limit Texas Holdem best advice
- Play only premium starting hands. In a standard $2-$4 NL game you should have a 20-30% view flop percentage. This means folding AJ in first position, K10 in middle position and Q10 in late position
- "Play the players". Make sure to quickly assess the opposition; who plays inferior hands, who folds at aggression, who bets on most draws, etc
- "Pump it or dump it". Fold or bet/raise (if the odds are with you). You should avoid calling unless you have a good reason (like trapping an opponent).
- Respect most big bets and raises. Especially so on turn and river as most players do not bluff.
- Table selection. Beware of tight-aggressive tables (low profit, high volatility) and avoid strong players overall as they will "read you and take your money"
No-limit Texas Holdem worst mistakes
- Calling with modest holdings when facing a bet (such as top pair with weak kicker or middle pair).
- Playing to many starting hands (Aces without face card kicker, Kings and Queens with 2 holes to kicker such as KT, small pairs without proper odds, etc)
- Not raising pre-flop with premium hands (to squeeze out limpers holding drawing hands)
- Over betting the pot (200% instead of 70% pot bet mostly increases the downside)
- Not enough check-raise (be aggressive but not predictable)
- Not aggressive enough on flop (take initiative)
- Not aggressive enough on turn (to follow through on initiative)
- Not folding middle pair, when facing bet(s)
Pre-flop play
Starting hand requirements
Our requirements work very well for a tight-aggressive style of play. For less experienced players this is a great way to start out.
Don't play marginal hands, as you will have to do a lot of guesswork and leaving you vulnerable. You will not be able to play them optimally, although a great player might be able to play even these hands for a slight profit.
This table shows minimum required hands per position in a semi-tight and semi-aggressive game. This is what you can expect at most $1-$2 NL or $2-$4 NL and up. If you play at a short-handed game this table works as well.
| Position | Minimum required starting hand |
| | Facing un-raised pot | |
| # Players left to act | Call (limp) | |
| | Non-pair | Pair |
| 9 | AK | 99 |
| 8 | AQ | 88 |
| 7 | AQ | 88 |
| 6 | AJ | 77 |
| 5 | AT | 77 |
| 4 | A9, KQ | 66 |
| 3 (cut off) | A9, KJs | 55 |
| 2 (button) | A7, KJ, QJs | 22 |
| 1 (SB) | A2, K9, QT, 87s | 22 |
| 0 (BB) | | |
How to modify table depending on action before you:
- If 1-2 limpers before you increase requirements with 1-3 positions (except for the pairs for which the requirement stay the same)
- If one face one raiser you increase requirements to at least as good as your own requirement to play in raisers position (with no regards of own position)
Limp or raise:
- Most of these hands should be brought in with a raise!!!
- Only avoid raising with "multi-way hands", such as pair lower than 9, connectors QJ and lower, suited Aces with lower kicker
General pre flop advice
- Make sure to bet top pairs (AA-TT) and top connectors (AK, AQ) to drive out low pairs and various connectors - they will often double up on you if they hit (many beginners do not realize this and play too weak)
- Stick to premium hands only (see the table). You will pay dearly to "chase" with second-best hands in no-limit
- Keep most raises down to about 70-100% (making it 3 times big blind to go typically equals an 80% pot bet) to save some money when you get raised or called by stronger holdings
- Have respect for strong tight players (you should for example drop AQ if a strong player raises under the gun)
- If you are getting raised holding JJ, TT, 99, AQ you should fold, as you most often are a huge underdog or even money (facing over pair or AK/AQ). Holding QQ you might choose to call down hoping to face AQ or JJ...
Flop play
Flop play is very important in no-limit Texas Holdem. The key is to determine the relative strength of your holding. Over time you will need to drop a lot of best hands, when you suspect them to be only second best. If not you will not be a long-term winner!
Make up your mind on your relative strength and release hands that face serious risk of being second best. However, it is often correct to bet. Betting is the natural move if you want to protect a good hand from being outdrawn or have a good chance of making opponents fold their hands. You should "pump it or dump it".
In order to decide the right action is very important to keep several factors in mind;
- who, if any, raised before the flop? (often expect another bet)
- what position do you have? (late position is stronger)
- number of players? (hard to bluff facing 3 opponents or more)
- face cards or connectors/suits in flop (much higher probability of good hands)
As a tight player you can often take initiative and bet the flop (especially if everyone limped in). With modest or drawing hands you can still bet if several other factors are in your favors, such as; no raise pre-flop, pre-flop raiser checks, you are in last/late position, there are only 1 or 2 opponents, the board has not likely helped your opponents.
When facing a bet you should often fold unless you have a good reason to doubt the strength of your opponent. As he is "setting the odds" you will need a better hand to call him than to have raised in the first place. Remember he can be holding everything from the stone colds nuts down to a decent hand - your decent hand will be an underdog to a lot of likely holdings!
Of course you will not always fold, in fact every now and then you should play back with a raise when you have a good chance of being in the lead. Then you will be setting the new odds - forcing him to join or fold.
Try to save your calls unless you have a very good reason (like slow playing a monster or drawing to the nuts in a multi-player pot). You will rarely get the odds for chasing "outs" by calling in no-limit Holdem! By calling with mediocre holdings you will set yourself up for a "guessing game" where you need to read opponents well and "make moves" in order to be successful.
4 typical situations on the flop
Here are four typical situations on the flop:
Very strong hand (set, top 2 pair, etc)
- Often slow play on un-coordinated board to lure opponents in or to induce a bluff from them
- However if the board is coordinated and several players are in you often need to overbet (well over 100% pot bet) to not give implicit odds for nut draws
Strong hand (overpair, top pair with A kicker, etc)
- Often value bet in order to protect the pot (e.g. pushing out Kings and Queens)
- However, you might have to release this type of hand when facing an over bet or bet/raise! Frequently there is an overpair out or connectors hitting the flop for a two pair. You will need discipline in order not to get committed all way to the river.
Medium hand (middle pair with A kicker, second pocket pair, etc)
- Avoid betting this hand most of the time when you are in early position, or facing several opponents, or even facing tricky players slow playing a lot. You want to get a free card to hit one of your pocket cards on turn!
- However, in late position and against players that don't trap a lot you can mix it up by betting this at times
- If you are facing a bet (or got raised) you should fold. You have no initiative and are probably chasing 2 or 3 outs.
Drawing hands (nut flush or nut straight)
- If you have 10 outs or more and are drawing to the nut flush or straight, which requires at least one overcard (higher than any board card) you can mix up you game by betting/check-raising/raising in order to win the pot right away or draw out on later rounds.
- If you are playing with "calling stations" this strategy has much lower equity as you will not get many free pots. Also remember that you like going all in on the flop, because an opponent with a made hand will be able to shut you out on the turn when you do not catch your cards (as you will not have pot odds to chase)
As a very rough cut example, a tight-aggressive player seeing 25% of all flops could have average "action statistics" like this on flop play: Fold 35%, Call 15%, Bet 40%, Raise 10%. The statistics is of course very dependent on opposition mostly betting or limping in first positions.
Specific holdings at flop play
Non-vulnerable "monsters" (four of a kind, top full house, nut flush, nut straight)
- There are a lot of ways to play them depending on the aggressiveness of the table and number of players joining the flop
- Remember to help build the pot if no-one is taking initiative (often with small raised to give pot odds). When betting 20-30% in multi-way pots, a lot of players will chase with their draws
- If you need to be active to build the pot, still leave ample room for opponents to make a move/bluff against you
Vulnerable "monsters" (low full house, non-nut flush, non-nut straight)
Top/middle/low set (trips using pocket pair)
- If the board is highly coordinated (3 or 2 in same suit and/or 3 or 2 connectors) you have to take a strong stand. Several players can be chasing so over betting the pot at 200-300% is not wrong.
- In the board is un-coordinated you can set up a slowplay, by limping, calling or betting modestly. Betting modestly works best if some cards are in the "playing zone" (e.g. 9 and up) as someone usually has a decent holding
- If you have a lower set, with several limpers in the pot (risk for higher trips) you might consider finding out on the flop. Overbetting on the flop, to shut down on later rounds (and fold to big bet) is an option
- Remember - with a monster you want to leave room for players to try to bluff you as long as you are not in great jeopardy of being outdrawn
Top two pair, Top bottom pair (paring both hole cards)
- Slow play this hand often with a modest bet or just call (you can get paid off well later)
- If the board is highly coordinated (3 or 2 in same suit and/or 3 or 2 connectors) you often want to push out the draws. Over betting the pot is not wrong if there are several opponents
- If you have hit with a "weak" Ace, let AK and AQ pay a lot to chase - because they will
- If you have a lower two pair, watch out for Aces and Kings in later rounds as higher two pairs than yours will be quite likely
Bottom two pair
- You need to protect this pot by
- Mostly as the other two pairs, but you want to take home this pot at the flop as both turn and river can create even more two pairs busting yours. A pot sized bet if enough, as you want to be able to release the hand if strongly played back at
Overpair (pocket pair above high card on the flop)
- To extract more money, often look to slowplay high overpairs (Aces, Kings and Queens) by just limping, calling or making modest bets. Top pair, AK/AQ, middle pairs with good kickers will often lead where you can wait to raise them on turn.
- You could even consider slowplaying a coordinated board as often another player will bet to take out draws (and make them selves committed to the pot if no scare card falls on turn or river)
- If you have a lower overpair the situation is quite different (Tens or lower). You want to take home the pot by an oversized bet.
Top pair, Ace kicker
- Mostly value bet on the flop (and continue on turn) as you often have weaker players staying in with weaker kickers or worse hands. Especially make sure to bet at least pot if the board is coordinated.
- You are vulnerable to two pairs if the flop has 2 connected cards above 7, so be ready to release your hand to a raise or shutting down on turn if called down in heads-up.
Top pair, no-Ace kicker
- In un-raised hand - make a strong value bet to take home pot, especially if your pair is Tens or below (you often face opponent with outs on most Face cards)
- Fold facing a bet from a tight player making a pot sized bet if there is decent chance you are out-kicked or sometimes even facing an overpair. Be extra wary to call if there are many players left to act, as you can take no heat whatsoever.
Second pair (pocket pair between the flop's high and middle card)
- Typical fold or bet hand.
- If you have late/last position with no more than two opponents, you can go ahead and bet an un-raised pot. Weak/loose players chase can be chasing on middle pairs or draws. Fore solid players might fold weak top pairs or other non-made hands.
- Fold if you are bet into by a tight/strong player, especially if players behind you are left to act
- When betting, release your hand if you get raised in most cases. The exception is when you strongly smell a draw from an aggressive player (then call down and try to take away pot at turn)
Middle pair with top kicker (Ace or maybe King)
- Fold in raised pot. Limp in un-raised pot
- You can make a position bet if you are last to act with only two opponents, as a semi-bluff
- (You should not be in too many hands like this as a tight strategy will make you play Aces with weak kickers only when they are suited and you are at the button or blinds)
Middle pair with no top kicker
- Fold in raised pot. If you are facing only 1 or 2 opponents with a "scare board" preferably with position, you can make a position bet (semi-bluff) trying to take home pot
Third pair (pocket pair below flop's second card)
- Don't be chasing your 2 outs. If you decide to bet it should be solely on "bluff merits" (few players, position, no face cards, etc)
Low pair with Ace kicker (or King)
- Fold to action. You will often be chasing 2 outs (for trips) as the Ace will make an opponent higher two pair
- If you decide to bet it should be solely on "bluff merits" (few players, position, no face cards, etc)
Low pair with low kicker
- Fold to action. Don't position raise. Try to limp to catch another card.
Nut draw with 10 outs or more (Ace flush draw, two over-card straight draw, straight flush draw)
- Always consider putting pressure on your opponent by betting, raising or check raising - instead of calling. An aggressive move is especially facing only 1 or 2 opponents who also can fold decent hands. With 12 outs (like flush draw with Ace kicker, giving you 9 nut outs and 3 top pair outs) you will have almost 50% to hit on turn and river combined. By putting an opponent all in on the flop you will often make money as you are almost 50% in the money - plus winning the pot up to 50% of the times at the flop.
- Late position gives extra advantage as you can limp for a free card (in particular if you are "deep in the money" or play in a multi-hand game, where a check-raise is possible) or bet out, which will often give you a free card on the turn instead
- However, if you are short-stacked having a late position is less important as you already on the flop will be all in or getting enough pot odds on the turn
- Note, when you have a decent amount of money you do not want to face a strong hand making a 75% pot bet heads-up on the turn. To call a 75% bet heads-up, pot odds over 30% (14-15 outs) are required. Even counting "implicit pot odds" with potential extra winnings on the river you still do not like a heads-up bet over 80%. When two players are already in you will draw at 25% pot odds, which is just about OK with your extra implicit odds on the river.
- Remember to draw for the nuts... don't "draw dead" against the nuts.
Non-nut draw with 10 outs or more
- Be prepared to fold your non-nut draw, in particular in raised multi-way pot, when you are chasing a flush. You do not want to chase to end up loosing the entire stack when hitting the draw!
- Mostly you should avoid betting or chasing on a second or third best draw, in particular on flush draw where you frequently can be up against a suited Ace. (With a second best draw you can make a decent bet in an unraised pot trying to snag it right away.)
Draw with 9 outs or less
- Don't be chasing, as you have low pot odds and might be "drawing dead". You want to limp in for a free card.
- Don't bet as a semi-bluff, as you should preserve you tight image and save this move for better hands.
Over cards - AK, AQ
- This hand should be played with caution against very good opposition and bad opposition. Strong players know that you as a tight player often will be sitting with over cards, which makes you vulnerable to steal raises. Bad players will call/chase down with mediocre holdings.
- If the board comes with no face card (King, Queen or Jack) you can bet 50-80% of pot as a steal move. Especially to follow-though as the pre-flop raiser and if there are no more than two opponents.
- Don't make it an expensive habit to bet this hand facing face cards and several opponents. You will loose money and "bluff equity" to use when better served.
Over cards - AJ, KQ
- Avoid calling or betting with these "trap hands" as you will not withstand any heat and are often up against AK, AQ.
Turn
- As a general rule - you still want to lead and build the pot
- Don't bet your draws - especially against strong players
- Don't call down big bets with just medium holding - rare that someone bets on a draw
- Against strong players you can make a steal-raise if you smell a semi-bluff, but you have to wait for the right moment when you have a good read
River
- Avoid betting unless you are quite sure to win a showdown, especially facing tough opponents. You have little to win and a lot to loose (as you 90% of the time will get calls only from players who think they have your made hand beat)
- Often you should just bet 25-40% when having the best hand (and no danger cards on the river). This amount will entice some weaker players to make a call with a weaker hand
- When you have hit your (nut) draw, often bet 80-120% of the pot to make it clear that either you made the draw you are bluffing. This kind of bet induces almost as many calls as a small bet.
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